| This is the process used to transfer photos to fabric using BubbleJet
Set 2000.
Supplies: You will need BBJS2000, a flat pan (like an aluminum roasting pan),
gloves, white pima cotton or other tight weave light colored fabric) and freezer paper.
- Cut the fabric into rectangles, approximately 8 1/2 by 11 but NOT exactly 8 1/2 by 11.
- Place the fabric into the roasting pan. The pan I have is not big enough to accommodate
the fabric laying completely flat, so I have to fold the fabric in half. I also treat them
as a single unit, so if I have 5 pieces of fabric, then I place them in a stack and then
fold as a single unit (you'll see why later).
- Pour in enough BBJS2000 to cover the fabric - you can treat several sheets of fabric at
once. Do not pretreat your fabric to have some ready for a future project. I found the ink
did not adhere as well as when the fabric had been freshly treated. You might need to poke
the fabric down into the liquid, particularly on the corners. The important thing is to
completely saturate the fabric. The directions recommend you wear gloves because it is a
chemical. I did at the beginning and don't now, but your choice. I was not affected with
rashes or anything, but can seep through your skin.
- Let the whole thing sit for 5 minutes. Then hang to dry - what I like to do is take a
small clothes drying rack and hang all the pieces as one (that's how I put them in the
roasting pan as well, to make it easier to hang). I let the pieces drip into the roasting
pan (can't waste any of that precious stuff!!). By hanging them as one, they can all drip
into the pan. Then when they have stopped dripping, I spread them around on the drying
rack - DO NOT WRING out. Then I use a funnel and pour the BBJS back into the bottle.
- Cut 2 pieces of freezer paper 8 1/2 by 11. The freezer paper is reusable, so I use two
pieces - so I can prepare one sheet, while the other is in the printer.
- Iron the fabric to the shiny side of the freezer paper. Make sure it is WELL adhered.
Look at the front of the fabric - are there any bubbles? If so, iron again - it needs to
be adhered all over. This is not hard, just has to be done. I don't use steam because of
the paper. Then when it is ironed, I trim the fabric to 8 1/2 by 11 (using the freezer
paper as a guide) You NEED to have freezer paper behind the whole piece of fabric.
- Once trimmed, I iron the leading edge (that will feed through the printer) once again.
Make sure this edge (fabric and paper) are like a single piece.
- Then remove everything from your printer paper tray and place the fabric/freezer paper
which ever way it needs to be. If not sure, mark an X on a piece of paper - run it through
and you can tell if the X is on the back or front as to which way the fabric needs to go.
- Then print the photos/labels. I am lucky enough to have an inkjet photocopier, so do not
need to scan the photos, but works the same way the printer does.
- Then once printed, remove the freezer paper and let dry. It is critical that you let
this dry at least 30 minutes. I usually leave mine over night, but don't really need to
leave that long.
- Then the photos need to be washed to remove excess ink. Wash in the washing machine on
gentle with a mild detergent, or you can hand agitate in the sink (again with mild
detergent) for 2 minutes. Do not be alarmed if the water goes dark (this is just excess
ink). Then you can use your photos like fabric.
- One thing about placing your photos on the fabric - ensure you leave enough space around
for seam allowances. I usually do two 4 by 6 photos on one sheet.
It is a very easy process and I always get freaked out when I throw them in the washer -
but none have ever disappeared. Note that the photos will not be as bright as a regular
photo (fabric is matte - can't change that) and some photos are grainier than others, so
of course the transfer is grainy. Also choose pictures that are high contrast and bright.
You get what you transfer.
For more tips, see Photo Transfer Tips and
Projects and Printing on Fabric
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